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| Light but Strong |
Showing posts with label Woodwork Projects. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Woodwork Projects. Show all posts
LIGHT RUSTIC WORK
Rustic carpentry does not demand great skill in woodworking, but it does require a large amount of artistic perception. The tools needed are but few, and the materials employed are comparatively cheap, although in many districts they are becoming dearer every year.
It may be said that any articles made from the now popular bamboo may be made quite as effectively in light rustic work.
For light rustic work, sticks of hazel, cherry, yew, blackthorn, birch, larch, fir, and the prunings of many varieties of shrubs may be used; but it is necessary that the material should be cut at the proper season, and thoroughly dried before being worked up. The sticks should be cut in mid-winter, as at that time the sap is at rest; if cut in the summer time the bark will peel off. If peeled sticks are required, they should be cut in the spring, when the sap is rising, as at that time the rind will come off easily. In some districts the copses are cleared of undergrowth periodically, and the sticks (generally hazel) sold to hurdle and spar makers. A selection of these sticks would be very suitable for the purpose here described.
RUSTIC TABLES
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| Fig. 42.—Square Table. |
A small rustic table which may, if desired, be used as a flower-pot stand, is illustrated by Fig. 42. The top may be made of ¾-in. stuff, and should have two ledges nailed underneath to prevent twisting. The table may be 1 ft. 10 in. high, with the top 15 in. square, or, if a larger size is required, 2 ft. 1 in. high, with the top 18 in. square. The design is not suitable for tables of a larger size.
ADVANCED PROJECTS IN WOODWORK (1)
by Ira S. Griffith
ADVANCED PROJECTS IN WOODWORK is a collection of projects designed
to meet the needs of classes in high school woodworking. These projects
presuppose familiarity with woodworking processes, tools, and the two
simple joints required in the making of projects contained in the
author's Projects in Beginning Woodwork and Mechanical Drawing.
The drawings are complete only as to their general dimensions.
The working out of details, such as the sizes of mortises and tenons
and their locations, is left for the pupil in his work in drawing and
design.
It is expected that the projects will afford suitable basic
material for classes in woodworking design. It remains for the
instructor to point out the manner in which this material may be used.
For illustration, many beginning students are slow in appreciation of
possible modifications in structure or decoration. Circular tops may be
used instead of square or octagonal, and vice versa. Modification of the
manner of filling side spaces with slats offers variety in initiative.
Vertical posts may be made tapering and vice versa. Rails and stretchers
may be variously employed. There is almost always a choice in the
matter of joints,—keyed or thru or blind tenon. Fig. 1 is suggestive as
to possible modifications of a type.
In addition to the possible structural modifications, the
plates suggest variation in the matter of decorative ornament such as
pierced and carved forms and simple inlay. Such ornament will, of
course, be kept subordinate to the structural design.
The upholstering of stool tops and seats for chairs provides another problem in variation.
Little, if any, use is made of dowels as substitutes for the
mortise-and-tenon. While it is true that modern commercial practice
makes much use of dowels in this way, the author feels that such
practice is too often contrary to the principles of good construction.
Its genesis lies in economy of material rather than in any superiority
as a fastening device.
In the designing of these projects the author has had in mind at all times the thought that most of the students using them would have access only to a band-saw or
jig-saw and a miter-box in addition to the regular hand tool
equipment. For this reason such projects as hall clocks, mission beds,
etc., have been excluded. The exceptional student will find projects of
sufficient size to tax his ability and muscle. Easier projects and lighter projects have
been provided for the weaker members of the class while the use of
slats or their omission will provide additional variation in time of
execution.
BROAD SURFACE PLANING
CUTTING HOARD
This is a simple exercise in broad surface planing. Procure the material 7/8" x 6" X 13". Plane to the required size, following the rules for planing in three dimensions, step B. A choice of four designs is offered on the drawing. The curve in the working drawing is made with compasses, sawed out with the turning saw and smoothed with the spoke shave. The other designs show simpler treatments. Locate the holes as shown. Remember to bore only until the spur shows thru. Then reverse the wood, finishing the boring from the opposite side. Be sure all surfaces are clean and smooth. No stain or shellac should be used on this project.
NARROW SURFACE PLANING
PENCIL POINTER
This article is used to put the final point on a newly sharpened pencil.
First procure the wood, 3/8"X 1 1/2"X 8" and plane it to the proper thickness, width and length, following the steps in Planing.—(First Method) or (Second Method).
The workman may use the outline for the handle shown on the drawing, or he may design a suitable outline for himself. The handle should be kept symmetrical in outline.
I f the outline shown on the drawing is followed; first, draw the center line, upon which
the hole is located and bored. Next draw off" the taper and plane carefully to the line. All surfaces should be cleaned with sandpaper. The No. O sandpaper shown on the drawing is cut from the larger sheets. Ordinarily sandpaper is torn to size, and not cut, as it may be plainly seen that it would ruin the cutting edge on any tool. In this case an old knife may be used to prepare the paper, as a smooth edge is desired. The paper is glued to the wood with a very thin coat of glue. The handle may be decorated with a stencil design or simple carving.
HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR
The stock necessary to make a morris chair of craftsman design as shown in the engraving can be purchased mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list:
- 4 posts 1-3/4 by 3 by 26 in.
- 2 front and back rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 24 in.
- 2 side rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 28 in.
- 2 arm pieces 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 37 in.
- 7 slats 3/8 by 2 by 24 in.
- 2 cleats 1 by 1 by 22-1/2 in.
- 2 back stiles 1 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in.
- 2 back rails 1 by 2 by 17 in.
- 3 back slats 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 19 in.
- 1 back support 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in.
- 2 support rests 1 by 1-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
- 2 dowels 1/2 in. diameter, 6 in. long.
HOME-MADE MISSION CHAIR
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| Suitable for Dining Room Use |
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| Details of Chair Construction |
A mission chair suitable for the dining room can be made from any one of the furniture woods to match the other articles of furniture. The materials can be secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the tenons and mortises. The material list can be made up from the dimensions given in the detail drawing. The front legs or posts, as well as the back ones, are made from 1-3/4-in. square stock, the back ones having a slope of 2 in. from the seat to the top. All the slats are made from 7/8-in. material and of such widths as are shown in the detail. The three upright slats in the back are 3/4-in. material. The detail drawing shows the side and back, the front being the same as the back from the seat down. All joints are mortised in the posts, as shown. The joints, however, can be made with dowels if desired. If making dowel joints they must be clamped very tight when glued and put together. The seat can be made from one piece of 7/8-in. material, fitted with notches around the posts. This is then upholstered with leather without using springs. Leather must be selected as to color to suit the kind of wood used in making the chair. The seat can also be made with an open center for a cane bottom by making a square of four pieces of 7/8-in. material about 4 in. wide. These pieces are fitted neatly to the proper size and dowelled firmly together. After the cane is put in the opening the cane is covered over and upholstered with leather in the same manner as with a solid bottom.
RUSTIC CHAIRS AND SEATS
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| Fig. 46.—Armchair. |
For the armchair (Fig. 46) select four slightly curved legs about 3 in. in diameter; the front pair are 2 ft. high and the back pair are 2 ft. 9 in. high. The front seat rail is 1 ft. 2 in. long by 2½ in. in diameter, the back rail is 1 ft. long, and the side rails are 1 ft. 3 in. long, their ends being trimmed to fit the legs, and fixed with inserted ash or elm dowels 7/8 in. in diameter; see Fig. 47. The height from the ground line to the seat top is 1 ft. 4½ in. The battens forming the seat rest on the side rails, and cleats are fixed to the inner sides of the four legs (see Fig. 48) to support the extreme back and front battens. The arms and back are made in three parts, the scarfed joints coming immediately over the back legs. The trellis work is then added, and finally the struts and dentils are fixed around the seat. The chair can be made from unbarked wood without any dressing, or the bark may be removed and the wood, when dry, can be finished in stain and outside varnish.
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