HOME-MADE MISSION BOOK RACK

Light but Strong

HOW TO MAKE A PORCH CHAIR

Details of Home-Made Porch Seat

ON THE USE OF STAINS

As this subject properly belongs to the painter and decorator, it is not necessary to go into details concerning the methods used to finish off your work. As you may not be able to afford the luxury of having your productions painted or stained, enough information will be given to enable you, if the character of the wood justifies it, to do the work yourself to a limited extent.

Soft Wood.—As, presumably, most of your first work will be done with pine, poplar, or other light-colored material, and, as many people prefer the furniture to be dark in color, you should be prepared to accommodate them.

Build Your Own Workbench

A  workbench is an essential piece of equipment in any home workshop. A workbench will allow you to complete projects easily and with greater accuracy. A variety of pre made workbenches are available to fit your needs. If you prefer, you can make your own workbench, either with a kit or from a plan.


Choosing a  workbench

Workbenches are available in a wide variety of sizes and styles. Benches are great for woodworking, crafts and other household projects. You can purchase a bench at most home improvement stores. Another option is to build your own bench. You can find plans in books and on the internet with instructions to create the perfect bench to suit your needs.

A Boy's Workshop

Carpenter work should be encouraged in a boy from the time he first becomes interested in it, for besides being something with which to keep him busy, the experience gained by its practice will be useful to him all his life, no matter what branch of industry he may follow later on.

When a boy has learned the proper care and use of tools, and is able to turn out neatly executed work, he will find the occupation a profitable one, there being an unlimited number of things he can make in his shop.

LIGHT RUSTIC WORK

Rustic carpentry does not demand great skill in woodworking, but it does require a large amount of artistic perception. The tools needed are but few, and the materials employed are comparatively cheap, although in many districts they are becoming dearer every year.
It may be said that any articles made from the now popular bamboo may be made quite as effectively in light rustic work.
For light rustic work, sticks of hazel, cherry, yew, blackthorn, birch, larch, fir, and the prunings of many varieties of shrubs may be used; but it is necessary that the material should be cut at the proper season, and thoroughly dried before being worked up. The sticks should be cut in mid-winter, as at that time the sap is at rest; if cut in the summer time the bark will peel off. If peeled sticks are required, they should be cut in the spring, when the sap is rising, as at that time the rind will come off easily. In some districts the copses are cleared of undergrowth periodically, and the sticks (generally hazel) sold to hurdle and spar makers. A selection of these sticks would be very suitable for the purpose here described.

RUSTIC TABLES

Fig. 42.—Square Table.

A small rustic table which may, if desired, be used as a flower-pot stand, is illustrated by Fig. 42. The top may be made of ¾-in. stuff, and should have two ledges nailed underneath to prevent twisting. The table may be 1 ft. 10 in. high, with the top 15 in. square, or, if a larger size is required, 2 ft. 1 in. high, with the top 18 in. square. The design is not suitable for tables of a larger size.

Setting Up A Home Woodwork Or Model Shop A Step By Step Guide

Planning is the secret to a successful home workshop. More and more people are setting up a woodworking or model engineering shop, either in their basement or garage.

The first step is to make sure your location is dry. You may need to make repairs to your garage roof, windows or door. If you are planning on using your basement then you will need to waterproof it, so that damp and the corrosion and rot it causes do not become issues.

Your next step is to provide water and electricity supplies. You need to have hand washing facilities if you are going to keep your job clean. An electricity supply suitable for running your machine tools is essential. These tools will be permanently wired in. You will also need lots of switched electric sockets about three feet from the floor. These will be used for plug in tools.

ADVANCED PROJECTS IN WOODWORK (2)

Book Stand.

ADVANCED PROJECTS IN WOODWORK (1)

by Ira S. Griffith

  

ADVANCED PROJECTS IN WOODWORK is a collection of projects designed to meet the needs of classes in high school woodworking. These projects presuppose familiarity with woodworking processes, tools, and the two simple joints required in the making of projects contained in the author's Projects in Beginning Woodwork and Mechanical Drawing.

The drawings are complete only as to their general dimensions. The working out of details, such as the sizes of mortises and tenons and their locations, is left for the pupil in his work in drawing and design.

It is expected that the projects will afford suitable basic material for classes in woodworking design. It remains for the instructor to point out the manner in which this material may be used. For illustration, many beginning students are slow in appreciation of possible modifications in structure or decoration. Circular tops may be used instead of square or octagonal, and vice versa. Modification of the manner of filling side spaces with slats offers variety in initiative. Vertical posts may be made tapering and vice versa. Rails and stretchers may be variously employed. There is almost always a choice in the matter of joints,—keyed or thru or blind tenon. Fig. 1 is suggestive as to possible modifications of a type.

In addition to the possible structural modifications, the plates suggest variation in the matter of decorative ornament such as pierced and carved forms and simple inlay. Such ornament will, of course, be kept subordinate to the structural design.

The upholstering of stool tops and seats for chairs provides another problem in variation.

Little, if any, use is made of dowels as substitutes for the mortise-and-tenon. While it is true that modern commercial practice makes much use of dowels in this way, the author feels that such practice is too often contrary to the principles of good construction. Its genesis lies in economy of material rather than in any superiority as a fastening device.

In the designing of these projects the author has had in mind at all times the thought that most of the students using them would have access only to a band-saw or jig-saw and a miter-box in addition to the regular hand tool equipment. For this reason such projects as hall clocks, mission beds, etc., have been excluded. The exceptional student will find projects of sufficient size to tax his ability and muscle. Easier projects and lighter projects have been provided for the weaker members of the class while the use of slats or their omission will provide additional variation in time of execution.

BROAD SURFACE PLANING

CUTTING HOARD

This is a simple exercise in broad surface planing. Procure the material 7/8" x 6" X 13". Plane to the required size, following the rules for planing in three dimensions, step B. A choice of four designs is offered on the drawing. The curve in the working drawing is made with compasses, sawed out with the turning saw and smoothed with the spoke shave. The other designs show simpler treatments. Locate the holes as shown. Remember to bore only until the spur shows thru. Then reverse the wood, finishing the boring from the opposite side. Be sure all surfaces are clean and smooth. No stain or shellac should be used on this project.

NARROW SURFACE PLANING

PENCIL POINTER

This article is used to put the final point on a newly sharpened pencil.
First procure the wood, 3/8"X 1 1/2"X 8" and plane it to the proper thickness, width and length, following the steps in Planing.—(First Method) or (Second Method).
The workman may use the outline for the handle shown on the drawing, or he may design a suitable outline for himself. The handle should be kept symmetrical in outline.
I f the outline shown on the drawing is followed; first, draw the center line, upon which
the hole is located and bored. Next draw off" the taper and plane carefully to the line. All surfaces should be cleaned with sandpaper. The No. O sandpaper shown on the drawing is cut from the larger sheets. Ordinarily sandpaper is torn to size, and not cut, as it may be plainly seen that it would ruin the cutting edge on any tool. In this case an old knife may be used to prepare the paper, as a smooth edge is desired. The paper is glued to the wood with a very thin coat of glue. The handle may be decorated with a stencil design or simple carving.

PLANING TO DIMENSIONS

There are several ways of planing the pieces of wood contained in a project. When the project is a simple one, there are two common sets of steps that may be used. The first is used when the wood for the project is furnished mill-planed to the finished thickness. The second is used when the wood is furnished thicker than the finished dimension. The first set of steps is generally used in most elementary work, on simple objects. It is also followed by the workman who is making very large objects, such as bookcases, large cabinets, etc., when the large surfaces are planed very carefully by machinery to save labor. In such large projects the joints and intricate work are finished before the surfaces are dressed off by hand. In no case is it considered desirable from the viewpoint of a skilled workman to allow machine marks to show on the finished article, whether it is large or small. If one will examine furniture of various types, it will be found that only that which is very inferior shows any machine marks on the surfaces.

TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Knowledge of Tools.—A knowledge of tools and their uses is the first and most important requirement. The saw, the plane, the hatchet and the hammer are well known to all boys; but how to use them, and where to use the different varieties of each kind of tool, must be learned, because each tool grew out of some particular requirement in the art. These uses will now be explained.
A Full Kit of Tools.—A kit of tools necessary for doing any plain work should embrace the following:

1. A Hatchet.
2. A Claw Hammer—two sizes preferred.
3. Cross-cut Saw, 20 inches long.
4. Rip Saw, 24 inches long.
5. Wooden Mallet.
6. Jack Plane.
7. Smoothing Plane.
8. Compass Saw.
9. Brace.
10. Bits for Brace, ranging from ¼ inch to 1 inch diameter.

THE BEST WOODS FOR THE BEGINNER

In this place consideration will be given to some of the features relating to the materials to be employed, particularly with reference to the manner in which they can be worked to the best advantage, rather than to their uses.

The Best Woods.—The prime wood, and the one with which most boys are familiar, is white pine. It has an even texture throughout, is generally straight grained, and is soft and easily worked. White pine is a wood requiring a very sharp tool. It is, therefore, the best material for the beginner, as it will at the outset teach him the important lesson of keeping the tools in a good, sharp condition.

Soft Woods.—It is also well for the novice to do his initial work with a soft wood, because in joining the parts together inaccuracies may be easily corrected. If, for instance, in mortising and tenoning, the edge of the mortised member is not true, or, rather, is not "square," the shoulder of the tenon on one side will abut before the other side does, and thus leave a crack, if the wood is hard. If the wood is soft there is always enough yield to enable the workman to spring it together. Therefore, until you have learned how to make a true joint, use soft wood.

HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR

The stock necessary to make a morris chair of craftsman design as shown in the engraving can be purchased mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list:

• 4 posts 1-3/4 by 3 by 26 in.
• 2 front and back rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 24 in.
• 2 side rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 28 in.
• 2 arm pieces 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 37 in.
• 7 slats 3/8 by 2 by 24 in.
• 2 cleats 1 by 1 by 22-1/2 in.
• 2 back stiles 1 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in.
• 2 back rails 1 by 2 by 17 in.
• 3 back slats 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 19 in.
• 1 back support 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in.
• 2 support rests 1 by 1-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
• 2 dowels 1/2 in. diameter, 6 in. long.

HOME-MADE MISSION CHAIR

Suitable for Dining Room Use

Details of Chair Construction

A mission chair suitable for the dining room can be made from any one of the furniture woods to match the other articles of furniture. The materials can be secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the tenons and mortises. The material list can be made up from the dimensions given in the detail drawing. The front legs or posts, as well as the back ones, are made from 1-3/4-in. square stock, the back ones having a slope of 2 in. from the seat to the top. All the slats are made from 7/8-in. material and of such widths as are shown in the detail. The three upright slats in the back are 3/4-in. material. The detail drawing shows the side and back, the front being the same as the back from the seat down. All joints are mortised in the posts, as shown. The joints, however, can be made with dowels if desired. If making dowel joints they must be clamped very tight when glued and put together. The seat can be made from one piece of 7/8-in. material, fitted with notches around the posts. This is then upholstered with leather without using springs. Leather must be selected as to color to suit the kind of wood used in making the chair. The seat can also be made with an open center for a cane bottom by making a square of four pieces of 7/8-in. material about 4 in. wide. These pieces are fitted neatly to the proper size and dowelled firmly together. After the cane is put in the opening the cane is covered over and upholstered with leather in the same manner as with a solid bottom.

RUSTIC CHAIRS AND SEATS

Fig. 46.—Armchair.

 

For the armchair (Fig. 46) select four slightly curved legs about 3 in. in diameter; the front pair are 2 ft. high and the back pair are 2 ft. 9 in. high. The front seat rail is 1 ft. 2 in. long by 2½ in. in diameter, the back rail is 1 ft. long, and the side rails are 1 ft. 3 in. long, their ends being trimmed to fit the legs, and fixed with inserted ash or elm dowels ⁷/8 in. in diameter; see Fig. 47. The height from the ground line to the seat top is 1 ft. 4½ in. The battens forming the seat rest on the side rails, and cleats are fixed to the inner sides of the four legs (see Fig. 48) to support the extreme back and front battens. The arms and back are made in three parts, the scarfed joints coming immediately over the back legs. The trellis work is then added, and finally the struts and dentils are fixed around the seat. The chair can be made from unbarked wood without any dressing, or the bark may be removed and the wood, when dry, can be finished in stain and outside varnish.