PENCIL POINTER
This article is used to put the final point on a newly sharpened pencil.
First procure the wood, 3/8"X 1 1/2"X 8" and plane it to the proper thickness, width and length, following the steps in Planing.—(First Method) or (Second Method).
The workman may use the outline for the handle shown on the drawing, or he may design a suitable outline for himself. The handle should be kept symmetrical in outline.
I f the outline shown on the drawing is followed; first, draw the center line, upon which
the hole is located and bored. Next draw off" the taper and plane carefully to the line. All surfaces should be cleaned with sandpaper. The No. O sandpaper shown on the drawing is cut from the larger sheets. Ordinarily sandpaper is torn to size, and not cut, as it may be plainly seen that it would ruin the cutting edge on any tool. In this case an old knife may be used to prepare the paper, as a smooth edge is desired. The paper is glued to the wood with a very thin coat of glue. The handle may be decorated with a stencil design or simple carving.
KEY BOARD
This project is intended for one of the first exercises in planing. The material is procured 3/4" X 4 1/2" X 13" and planed to the finished dimensions in the method outlined in the "Steps in Planing,". The position of the holes and hooks are carefully located. Bore the
holes with a drill bit. Mark for the hooks with a marking awl, pricking a small hole in the wood to give the screw on the hook a start. Sandpaper all the surfaces clean and smooth. Finish with wax or shellac. The board may also be stained. Use brass cup hooks to hang the keys on.
KNIFE STROP
The working drawing shows the knife strop in its simplest form. The better workmen may choose one of the other forms illustrated.
Procure material 1/2" X 1 3/4" X 15" and plane to the finished dimensions shown on the working drawing. Locate the hole in the handle and bore the hole, boring only until the spur of the bit shows thru. Then the wood is turned around and the boring is finished from the opposite side.
If one of the optional outlines for the handle is chosen, this is drawn on the wood and cut out. Then the surfaces are sandpapered smooth and clean. A fine sandpaper should be used for this. The emery cloth should not be cut out with any of the bench tools. There is probably an old knife kept in the shop which may be used for this kind of work. If desired, one side of the strop may be covered with leather, instead of emery cloth.
FISH-LINE REEL
This may also be used for a kite string or for the odds and ends of twine saved at home. It is intended for one who is just beginning woodwork. Procure stock 1/2" X 3" X 11" and plane to the finished dimensions following the Steps for Planing (First or Second method). Draw the center lines both ways and draw the outlines of the notches. The heavy line shows the simplest kind of cut, as it may be made with the back saw. The dotted lines show two other ways to make the notch. These are cut out with the coping saw. See that all edges are smooth and all surfaces are clean before calling the object finished.
TRELLIS
This project may easily be changed in construction or dimensions to suit some individual need. It may be made taller, with more cross pieces, or some other arrangement of parts may be used by the workman. If the drawing is followed: Procure stock in two pieces, one 5/8" X 2 1/2" X 25", to make the upright parts, the other 5/8" X2 1/2" X 12", to make the cross pieces.
Plane these pieces to thickness, and on each edge. Then gage the widths of the parts from the edges, saw between the gage lines, and plane the sawn edges of each piece to the gage lines. Point the ends of the long pieces as indicated in the drawing, using either the knife or the chisel. Then measure for length and square ends on the pieces to make them the required length.
When assembling, tack the pieces in place with only one brad in each joint. Then make sure that the pieces are square to each other, and secure them with a second brad in each joint.
White or green paint is a good finish for this project.
Plant Label and Garden Stake
Procure material enough larger than the finished sizes to allow for planing. Plane to the finished width and thickness, draw the shape of the point carefully, and whittle or chisel to the lines. Then mark off the length and square the second end.
The plant label has a saw cut in the top to hold a card with the name of the plant written on it. This card is held in place with a small nail or wire thrust through the hole shown, and thru the card when it is in the saw cut.
The garden stake is trimmed as shown with the chisel or knife.
These two objects may be left unfinished or may be painted to suit one's taste.
PAIL STAND
This project gives practice in planing long pieces and in making duplicate parts. Procure stock for the slats and square them up after the method described on step E. The legs are planed square after the method D.
The outline for the bottom of the legs shown in the drawing may be used, or one more pleasing may be designed by the workman. If the drawing is followed, locate the center of the hole as indicated. Then draw the slanting lines shown. After boring the hole, saw on these slanting lines, and smooth up the edges.
Sandpaper all the surfaces smooth and assemble, using either nails or screws. To be sure that the stand will go together squarely, first fasten the legs to one of the outside slats, making sure that the legs are at right angles to the outer edge of the slat. Then fasten the other outside piece so that it is flush with the other ends of the legs. The middle slat is then put in place and the job is done. Make sure that the ends of the slats overhang the legs the proper amount, and that they are in line, also that the stand rests level when stood on a flat surface.
BACK REST
This project gives the workman lots of drill in planing narrow surfaces. Generally there is material in strips about the shop that will work into the making of a few of these objects to advantage.
Follow the rules tor planing carefully. (Steps in Planing; Second Method, or Fourth Method.) When assembling, it is good to square a line across the outer edges of two of the slats to mark where the edges of the cross pieces are to come. Task the outer slats in place with only one nail in each cross piece. The four sided frame, thus produced may be squared, and held true by the second nail in each corner. The middle strip may then belocated and tacked in place. Finally the remaining strips are placed carefully and fastened. It screws are used the same steps may be taken. If the nails should show thru they may be clinched on the under side.
SEWING STAND
This is a very popular little sewing stand because of its extreme lightness which makes it easy to carry about. When not in use it may be sowed away in a closet as it takes but little room when folded.
The maker of this stand gets experience in planing duplicate pieces and in boring. The material for the legs is procured in one piece, 5/8" x 6" X 27", and is planed as described on E. All four legs should then be the same width and thickness. This method is useful in making boxes and any other object made with a number of long duplicate parts. The ends of the legs are next marked out with the compasses and trimmed to shape with the chisel. When marking for the holes for the dowels, place the legs on the bench edge to edge and square the lines across all four at one time. Bore very carefully. If any hole is bored at an angle, the frame will be skewed and a poor job will result. The dowels should be carefully cut to length with the ends nicely trimmed. Sandpaper all the parts before assembling. The lower dowels are glued and nailed. The upper dowels are fastened in place with round head screws, so that they may be removed to receive the cretonne sewing bag as shown in the drawing. Before turning in the screws make a hole sligh tly smaller than the worm of the screw, otherwise the screw will surely split the dowels.
This stand should receive a good finish. Mahogany stain, shellaced and rubbed down, seems most suitable for an object of this kind. Under certain conditions paint may also be used. Do all the finishing before attaching ihe work bag.
