CUTTING HOARD
This is a simple exercise in broad surface planing. Procure the material 7/8" x 6" X 13". Plane to the required size, following the rules for planing in three dimensions, step B. A choice of four designs is offered on the drawing. The curve in the working drawing is made with compasses, sawed out with the turning saw and smoothed with the spoke shave. The other designs show simpler treatments. Locate the holes as shown. Remember to bore only until the spur shows thru. Then reverse the wood, finishing the boring from the opposite side. Be sure all surfaces are clean and smooth. No stain or shellac should be used on this project.
WRITING BOARD
This is a useful article that a boy beginning to use woodworking tools can make well. It gives him an opportunity to learn to plane a broad surface flat and smooth, and to square the end on a wide board. The rules for planing given on step B should be followed closely to ensure a good result.The dotted lines suggest two modifications of the design. Line A represents half of a simple decorative curve for the top edge. Line B combines a pleasing curve with a feature for increasing the usefulness of the board,, as a wide rubber band may be passed around the board at the notch marked C, to hold the paper in place, or to tuck the pencil under when not in use.
The drawing for the Tooth-Brush Rack and several other projects suggest other curves that may be applied to the top edge of this board. The boy may originate his own design very easily by folding a piece of paper the size of the board, and cutting a number of curves with the scissors. No deep incisions in the edge should be made, as they would tend to destroy the usefulness of the board. After making a number of patterns get the teacher's advice as to which one is the most suitable to use.
The board may be stained, or finished in natural color, according to the kind of wood used. Four thin coats of shellac should be applied and rubbed down with fine pumice-stone and raw linseed oil.
FOOT STOOL
This article finds its place of usefulness by the easy chair or in the sewing room.The pieces are to be planed to size after the method outlined in the plates showing the steps in planing. In the case of the legs it would save labor to procure a piece of stock long enough to make both legs and plane it to width and thickness before sawing it in two, as indicated on step D.
The drawing shows how the stool may be modified in design to satisfy the individual taste.
After assembling, the stool had better be stained and polished as this is difficult to do after the upholstering has been done.
The upholstering is very simple. First tack strips of burlap or heavy cloth, 4" wide, to the top of the stool so that two thirds the width
overlaps the edge of the top. Make a long roll of the material that is to be used for stuffing (curled hair, cotton, or tow) and lay it around the edge of the top. Carry the free edge of the strip of burlap over the filling and tack it down as shown on the drawing. This makes a soft, round edge, all along the outer edge of the top. The stuffing will fill the space inside this roll. It is covered with burlap or other rough, cheap material which is tacked down around the outer edge of the top. The top cover may then be smoothly stretched and tacked around the edge. Bind the edges with gimp, tacked with covered tacks that match the top material. The gimp should cover all the rough edges of the cover and the plain tacks. With reasonable care, after studying these directions, any boy ought to be able to do a very neat job.
MITER BENCH-HOOK
This project lays strong emphasis on the squaring-up process.The stock for the base should be carefully squared to size following the rules for planing on step B. The center line may then be drawn and the holes located upon it and bored, as indicated in the drawing. Procure a piece of stock long enough to include the miter block and the two end blocks. Plane this to the width of the base and to the thickness indicated on the drawing. The angle of 45° for the miter blocks may then be marked off and the surplus wood cut away by carefully sawing near the line with the back saw. Care should be taken to plane this surface to the exact angle and at the same time keep the surface at right angles to the broad surface. When this has been done, the length of the miter block may be marked off and the piece trimmed to size.
The material remaining should make the two end blocks. Carefully square both ends before marking the length of these pieces and sawing them in two. In this case the "length" goes the short way of the board, as "length" in wood is generally understood to run with the grain. When these pieces have been trimmed to the finished size they are carefully glued in place, preferably with hot glue, and left in clamps until dry. The corners may then be trimmed as shown and the work cleaned up. The miter block is held in place with a piece of dowel, which is glued only to the block. The block may then be set aside, when it is desired to use the bench hook for square end stock.
Give this project two coats of shellac to keep it clean and to protect it from the atmosphere. Apply the shellac in thin coats, allowing each coat to dry over night before sanding smooth.
BOOT-BLACKING STAND
This project is an old favorite of the boys and gives excellent practice in broad surface planing and simple construction.The ends and sides should be planed according to the rules for planing, B.
The construction lines for the pattern cut on the end have been left on the drawing to aid the workman to reproduce the curve on the wood. Draw the center line first and locate the center of the hole. Make a mark i" from each edge on the bottom end. Adjust the compasses to half the distance from this mark to the center of the hole and describe the arcs shown in light lines. Where these arcs intersect is the center of the arcs that outline the pattern. The radius is the same for all arcs. Bore the hole and then saw the curves with the turning-saw. The pupil may design his own outline with the permission of his teacher. When these curves have been smoothed nicely, the joint may be.marked out. First make a line across the edges as far from the top end as the side boards are wide. Square this line with lead pencil on both sides of the board. Set the gage to the thickness of the side boards and gage lines parallel to the edges on both sides of the end piece, from the top to the pencil lines. Saw very carefully just to this line with the rip saw, so that the saw will leave a flat surface for the side board to fit against. If the sawing is well done, no trimming will be necessary. Saw across the grain with the back saw to complete the joint. The sides and ends should next be assembled. All inside surfaces should be made smooth and clean. The location of the brads should be marked lightly and the brads started in the sides as shown on the drawing. Put glue on the edge of the end piece before placing the sides and driving the nails home. The corners of the box should be square when nailed together. The bottom board may be planed to thickness and with one edge and one end squared. The length is then
marked very carefully and the board fitted and nailed in place. The edges may be trimmed off flush to the sides of the box. The pieces for the top are planed to dimensions and chamfered as shown on the drawing. One side is fastened down and the other is hinged to it. If the box is to be painted the brads may be driven thru the top, but if it is to be stained and polished it would be best to fasten the top with "blind nails" and glue. To do this drive brads into edges of the box on the side the cover is to be fastened to and cut off the heads %" above the surface of the wood. Press the top down on these brads until it touches the top edge of the box, then remove it and put glue on the edge of the box and clamp the top down with hand-screws. Wipe off any surplus glue and set
aside to harden. The foot rest may be started at this time. Make a cardboard pattern from the drawing and mark around it on the wood. Saw to the lines with the turning-saw and smooth the edges with the spokeshave. The heel rest is sawed out with the back-saw. The place for the sole of the shoe is cut out with the spoke shave. The foot rest is fastened to the inner side of the hinged half of the top with dowels and glue, or "blind nails" and glue. When fitting the hinges remember these things: Half the thickness of the hinge when folded is sunk into each piece and the center line of the hinge pin should be just in line with the corner of the board. To locate hinges it is safe as a rule to place them one sixth of the length from the end of the board.