There are several ways of planing the pieces of wood contained in a project. When the project is a simple one, there are two common sets of steps that may be used. The first is used when the wood for the project is furnished mill-planed to the finished thickness. The second is used when the wood is furnished thicker than the finished dimension. The first set of steps is generally used in most elementary work, on simple objects. It is also followed by the workman who is making very large objects, such as bookcases, large cabinets, etc., when the large surfaces are planed very carefully by machinery to save labor. In such large projects the joints and intricate work are finished before the surfaces are dressed off by hand. In no case is it considered desirable from the viewpoint of a skilled workman to allow machine marks to show on the finished article, whether it is large or small. If one will examine furniture of various types, it will be found that only that which is very inferior shows any machine marks on the surfaces.
The second set of steps in planing is the one used most often in the manual training shop, or where very fine, close and accurate work is to be done. Seldom is a piece of wood procured that is perfectly flat or straight across, as it is "subject to change without notice" after it leaves the sawmill, due to changes in temperature, dampness, etc. To plane the broad surfaces flat and true would tend to make the board too thin. Therefore the stock should be procured thicker than the finished size is to be. The usual allowance for planing, as made by careful workmen, is: Y%' in thickness, %" in width, J2" in length.
The two common sets of steps in planing follow in "Steps in Planing," (First Method) and (Second Method).
When a number of pieces are to be made that have several dimensions in common, it is more economical to plane the pieces in such a way as to save time, labor, and material. There are several cases where this is done to advantage, and they are outlined in plates C, D, E, and F.
STEPS IN PLANING
A. (First Method)
Planing in two dimensions, or, steps in planing when the wood is of the required thickness.i. Mark the hollow, or concave side of the board with one straight line, thus: / Call this the "working face."
2. Plane the better edge straight and smooth, and square to the working face ( ). Mark
with two lines, thus: // Call this the "working edge."
3. Gage the width from the working edge (//), and plane to the line.
4. Plane the better end square to the working face ( ) and the working edge (//).
5. Mark off the length from the finished end, saw next to the line, and plane the second end
square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//).
B. (Second Method)
Planing in three dimensions, or steps to be taken when the wood is thicker than the required dimensions.1. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark thus: / Call this the "working face."
2. Plane the better edge straight and smooth, and square to the working face (/). Mark //. Call this the "working edge."
3. Gage the width from the working edge (//) and plane to the line.
4. Gage the thickness from the working face (/) and plane to the line.
5. Plane the better end square to the working face (/) and to the working edge (//).
6. Mark off the length from the finished end, saw next to the lines to remove the waste wood, and plane the second end square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//).
Note: When the wood is narrow the end planing may be done with the aid of the bench hook, using the block plane.
When the wood is 4" wide, or wider, it is better to hold it end up in the vise.
When the board is very wide, 8" or more, the smoothing plane or the jack plane will be used to better advantage than the block plane for end planing.
In any case, plane only part way across the end from each edge. Planing all the way across the end of a piece of wood causes the corners to be split off.
C. (Third Method)
When there are two long pieces of the same length, width, and thickness, or of the same length and thickness.i. Procure a piece of stock wider than the combined width of the two pieces.
2. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark / Call this the "working face."
3. Plane both edges straight and smooth, and square to the working face (/). Mark both
of these edges //. They are the working edges—one for each piece.
4. Gage the thickness from the working face ( ), and plane to the line.
5. Gage the width of each piece from the working edges (//) saw between the lines, and
plane the sawn edge of each piece to the gage lines.
6. Plane the better end of each piece square to the working face ( /) and the working edge
(//).
7. Mark off the length of each piece, saw next to the line and plane the ends square to the
working faces (/) and the working edges (//).
D. (Fourth Method)
When there are two or more short pieces of the same width and thickness to be made.1. Procure a piece of stock longer than the combined length of the pieces.
2. Plane the better broad surface flat and smooth. Mark /. Call this the "working face."
3. Plane the better edge straight and smooth, and square to the working face (/). Mark //. Call this the "working edge."
4. Gage the width from the working edge (//), and plane to the line.
5. Gage the thickness from the working face (/), and plane to the line.
6. Plane both ends square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//).
7. Mark the lengths of two pieces, measuring from the finished ends. Saw next to the lines
and plane the new ends square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//).
Note: If there are three pieces to be made the wood sawed out of the middle will make the third piece. The ends should be squared to make it the proper length.
If there are four pieces to be made repeat steps 6 and 7 on the wood sawed out of the middle of the strip.
If there are five pieces to be made repeat steps 6 and 7 and the first part of this note.
E. (Fifth Method)
When there are two, three, or more long and narrow pieces of the same thickness and similar lengths.i. Procure a piece, of stock wider than the combined width of all the pieces.
2. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark . Call this the "working face."
3. Plane both edges straight, smooth, and square to the working face ( ). Mark each of
these edges //. Call them the "working edges."
4. Gage the thickness from the working face (/), and plane to the line.
;. Gage the widths of two of the pieces from the working edges I ), saw near the lines'
and plane to the lines on the pieces sawn off.
a) If only three pieces are to be made, plane the edge of the piece sawed out of the
middle of the board. This edge should be planed straight and smooth, and square
to the working face (/). Mark it //. Gage the width from this edge and plane to
theline
b) If there are four pieces to be made, the wood sawed out of the middle of the original
piece will make the third and fourth piece. Plane each edge straight and smooth, and square to the working face (/) and mark //. Gage the widths of the third and fourth pieces from these edges, saw between the lines, and plane to the lines.
c) If there are five or more pieces to be made the above steps are repeated until all the
pieces have been planed to the proper width and thickness.
6. Plane the better end of each piece square to the working face (/) and the working
edge ( ).
7. Mark off the length of each piece, saw to the lines, and plane the second end of each
piece square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//).
F. (Sixth Method)
When there are two pairs of pieces of medium length to be made, i. Procure stock longer than the combined length of the two pairs when the pairs are placed end to end, and wider than the combined widths of the two pieces in each pair.z. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark Call this the "working face."
3. Plane both edges straight and smooth, and square to the working face. Mark //. Call these the "working edges."
4. Gage the thickness from the working face (/), and plane to the lines.
y. Gage the widths from the working edges (//), saw near the lines and plane to the lines.
6. Plane both ends of each piece square to the working faces ( ) and the working edges (//).
7. Mark off the lengths of each piece from the ends of the strips. Saw near the lines, and
plane the ends square to the working faces (/), and the working edges (//).